Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Calling and getting connected with a local septic company doesn't cost you anything. Any charges come from the company you're connected with, for the actual pumping, repair or installation work, and that should be laid out in a written estimate before work starts.

No. We're a referral service. When you call, you're connected with an independent, local company that handles the actual pumping, repair or installation in your area. See our About page for more detail on how the referral works.

National cost guides put septic tank pumping at roughly $0.30 to $0.70 per gallon, so a 1,000-gallon tank typically runs $300 to $700. Larger tanks cost more, up to around $450 to $1,050 for a 1,500-gallon tank. See our septic pumping cost guide for the full breakdown.

The EPA's general guidance is every three to five years for a conventional tank, depending on household size and total wastewater use. Aerobic systems and anything with a pump or float should be checked about once a year, and Texas requires more frequent professional inspections during the first two years after an aerobic unit is installed.

It's possible for a tank to keep functioning for a long stretch without an obvious failure, but the EPA recommends pumping every three to five years for most households. Waiting far longer raises the risk of solids escaping into the drainfield, which is a more expensive repair than pumping ever would have been.

Flushing things that don't break down: wipes (including ones labeled flushable), grease, feminine hygiene products, dental floss, cigarette butts, cat litter, paper towels, and household chemicals like paint, pesticides or gasoline. These clog the system or kill the bacteria that break down waste. Only human waste and toilet paper should go down the toilet.

A routine maintenance inspection typically runs $150 to $450, while a more thorough inspection for a home purchase, which usually checks the tank, lids and drainfield, runs about $300 to $650. Camera inspections of the lines run $125 to $500.

A new conventional (gravity) system typically installs for $3,500 to $8,500. Alternative systems, including aerobic units, generally run $4,000 to $15,000. On top of that, permits, site evaluation and testing usually add $1,000 to $2,000.

Not exactly. Texas doesn't mandate a standalone septic inspection to close a sale, but Texas Property Code Section 5.008 requires sellers of a previously occupied single-family home to complete a disclosure form that specifically calls out the septic system. Lenders and buyers commonly ask for an inspection anyway, so it's worth scheduling one early if you're selling.

The Texas Commission on Environmental Quality (TCEQ) sets the rules and licenses OSSF professionals, but in most of the state a local jurisdiction, often the county, is authorized to actually issue permits. In Gregg County, for example, the Gregg County Health Department handles OSSF permitting.

Yes, aerobic tanks still need pumping over time, similar to a conventional tank, though the schedule can vary by system and usage. What's different is the ongoing maintenance contract: aerobic units need inspection and testing at least every four months under Texas rules during the required contract period, on top of any pumping.

There's no single fixed number since it depends on your tank size and how the rest of the household uses water, but spreading laundry loads across the week instead of running several in one day reduces the risk of overloading the tank and pushing solids into the drainfield before they've settled.

Watch for slow drains throughout the house (not just one fixture), gurgling pipes, sewage odor near the tank or drainfield, soggy ground or unusually green grass over the drainfield, and sewage backing up into a drain or toilet. If you notice more than one of these, have a local company take a look before it turns into a backup inside the house.

Naturally occurring bacteria in the tank break down organic waste over time, which is why septic systems don't need much beyond regular pumping to keep working. Harsh chemicals, excess bleach, and some drain cleaners can kill off that bacteria, which is part of why they're on the list of things to avoid pouring down the drain.